From http://www.crosstrainingenduro.com The motocross to enduro coversion is coming along nicely. At first the bike felt almost unrideable on some of our harder tracks until these engine mods tamed the beast a little.
ENGINE MODS: Steahly flywheel weight, G2 Throttle Tamer. Powervalve adjustment. NECJ needle. Next was suspension, with FFRC making some internal mods to those 4CS forks that have proved a nightmare for some suspension tuners. They also their dyno to do some custom valving and a better damping adjuster. An incredible difference, and combined with the engine mods the 250SX was really starting to become an enduro animal.
So, wheels and tyres. The main problem here is the motocross 19 inch rear wheel. In effect this gives you a low profile tyre which apparently provides better handling on the race track. The 18 inch enduro rear wheel allows a higher profile tyre which gives you a bigger footprint, allows the tyre to wrap around rocks and roots more, and reduce your chance of punctures. To ram the message home, we got a rear puncture on the very first ride.
The ideal is to simply fit an 18 inch rear wheel if you can get one. But many people do these motocross enduro conversions because they are on a budget, so what are the other options? First is the TUbliss system. This eliminates the chance of pinch punctures, you can either keep riding or just plug the tyre if it gets punctured, and you can run a low pressure to try and get a decent footprint from that high profile tyre.
Cross Training Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJAvmhgP0h1AEKY8vTEJPJg
Cross Training Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/cross.training.enduro.skills/?ref=ts
Our enduro vlog series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLlur54ugvzNJlUO0y6D10jVOGMLI4Raci
Cross Training website: http://www.crosstrainingenduro.com
Like to support our vids? http://www.crosstrainingenduro.com/cross-training-support-donations.htm
However we opted for Goldentyre mousses, figuring there was a greater chance of dinging the rim with the low profile rear tyre. Goldentyre have a good range of motocross tyres so for the rear we picked the GT232, a soft compound rubber that we hoped would mimic the GT333, Goldentyre’s enduro all rounder knobby.
On the front we slapped a Goldentyre GT216AA high profile tyre, often called the ‘fatty’. I’ve used this on three bikes now and it’s become my first choice. Great grip, good longevity, a big footprint but most importantly it settles down the front end of twitchy two strokes like the KTMs.
So how is the Kato performing with her new shoes? Great. The engine mods made a big difference, so did the suspension tuning, and the new tyres and mousses are another big jump, with a lot more confidence in getting traction on tough tracks or at speed. If you’ve never used mousses, a few riders talk about a dead feeling… the mousses compress a bit more initially but then really toughen up on the big hits that can damage rims and break spokes. It means you get a bigger footprint and with more rubber on the ground you can feel the extra grip. Personally I love it and most riders on mousses do. Otherwise TUbliss may suit you better – see our video that compares mousses, tubes and the TUbliss system.
While the Goldentyre GT232 hooks up extremely well, there are still times I can feel the limitations of the 19 inch wheel with ledges, tree roots and rocky terrain. Combined with the mousse the GT232 does a great job but in these situations you can feel the limitations of a low profile tyre that simply isn’t wrapping itself around obstacles the way an 18 inch rear wheel setup can. If you mainly ride open flowing tracks this won’t be an issue but you may want that 18 inch rear wheel if you like hard technical terrain.
Well guys, the 250SX is really starting to feel like an enduro bike that kicks arse, in the final episode we’ll look at all the finishing touches in terms of protection, gearing, ergonomics and that tiny fuel tank.
wheels tyres tubes stabiliser 18 inch punctures
protection vs weight
gearing… gear down, rekluse, midwest or clake, birchy’s mod
ergos… steg pegz, footpegs, levers, risers,
fuel tank and no reserve, chain, kickstand
The gearing can be kept stock. If any changes are made to gearing the best bet is go up a tooth or two on the rear. This can bring first and second gear closer together.